Tuesday, 26 November 2013
Thursday, 21 November 2013
Isn't this the most amazing fabric?
This post would have been up a lot sooner, but I got distracted... started working on a new dress for Thanksgiving. I think I'm up to my third "dress for Thanksgiving"... keep changing my mind!! Can't decide on what to wear this Saturday when I meet my BF's dad and wife for the first time. Yikes. Super excited about turkey though.
As with all patterns, the second time round is always more enjoyable, after all the fitting issues are identified and fixed.
In my case, it was the back. I must have a small back cos on my floral maxi version, I had a 4cm SA at the top, grading out to 1.5cm SA at the waist.
Trying to be proactive, I made adjustment to the pattern piece. Only one problem - I forgot about the SA and took a 4cm chunk out of the back bodice piece. Didn't realise this till I stitch the shell and underlining together. I managed to save it by unpicking the back seams (not side seams because they had boning) and restitching with a 0.75cm SA. Crisis averted. Considering how average I am at maths.. it was a good save!
My other problem area is the bust. Haven't opened the SBA can of worms yet so lets move on.
No complaints with this pattern, all the pieces came together swimmingly (see what I did there??). I didn't have to refer to the instructions as the construction was pretty straight forward. Oops, I lied. I did refer to instructions, just for piece 13 when I was working on the muslin. Bloody piece 13. Confusing as.
But I figured it out! The problem with my muslin was the interfacing, it made the fabric too stiff so the ruching didn't sit against the underlining. On this version, I didn't interface piece 13.
Instead of spreading the gathering down the entire centre front seam, I kept the gathering at the top around the bust area to give the bust some much needed oomph.
Pattern Pieces used: 7 (bodice front lining), 8 (bodice side front lining ), 13 (bodice front) 16 (bodice back), 17 (bodice side back), 19 (skirt back), 21 (skirt front)
Zipper $2, Grosgrain Ribbon $2, Bikini hook $1
|I love Japanese Cotton Lawn, can I marry you??? Fantastic to work with!|
Excuse the fugly overlocking, my overlocker was doing naughty things.
I had leftover fabric so I cut out a second bodice, was planning to use it as lining (self-lined) but the Japanese Lawn underlining turned out so beautifully that I used that for the lining too. In the coming months, there will be another fishy 6349 on this blog and in my wardrobe.
This is such a great pattern. Highly recommend it to everyone, old or young, novice or advanced. This pattern is super quick and easy to construct (it's the cutting and interfacing that takes time).
If you want a challenge, you can add bust cups and padding like I did last time or make this in a nice rayon, viscose or silk!
Can't wait to smash out another one!!
Tuesday, 12 November 2013
I think I have a new favourite pattern! Or at least favourite pattern in the "strapless bodice" category.
This pattern tested my patience as there was so much cutting and prepping! There was the shell fabric, the underlining, the lining, the INTERFACING!
Then hours ironing on the interfacing to all the pieces. The end result is worth it though, being able to handle each bodice piece without fear of it stretching makes the sewing process much more enjoyable.
If you are planning to use this pattern, and I highly recommend you do, it helps to be super organised because it can get confusing when you are cutting out heaps of the SAME pieces.
I'm hoping the below will help others, I'll definitely be referring to it in the future if I make this dress again.
M6349, View C bodice (no straps).
Which pieces to cut:
#13 - Bodice Front
CUT 2 (shell fabric)
Used for front bodice, this is the piece that has the bust gathering.
Do not interface (on my muslin I interfaced it and the gathers did not sit against the underlining).
#16 and #17 - Bodice Back and Bodice Side Back
CUT 2 (shell fabric) joins with #13
CUT 2 (lining) joins with #7 and #8
CUT 4 (interfacing) all pieces to be interfaced
Insert boning on the lining side seams
When all the cutting and interfacing is out of the way, the real fun begins! There's sewing, unpicking (grr), gathering, clipping seams, boning, understitching... you name it!
Also, I figured out pattern piece #13!! I think the issue last time was due to the interfacing, it made the fabric too stiff so the shell wouldn't lay against the underlining, kept poofing up like a puffer fish.
This time I didn't interface piece #13 and it worked out! I made a slight adjustment to the gathers though, instead of the gathering being all the way down the front centre seam, I kepts it all around the bust...
Bodice underlining (cotton lawn)
Pattern pieces #7 and #8
View C bodice with bust gathering.
Pattern pieces: #13 (bodice front shell),
#7 & #8 (bodice front underlining),
#7, #8, #16, #17 (lining).
About to understitch the bodice after joining shell and lining together.
Sunday, 10 November 2013
I don't know if I can/should even tag this post with the label "McCalls 5845" any more since the only original part is the front bodice, and even that has a slight alteration... so I apologise to the people who stumbled on to my blog when googling "M5845".
You've heard it before, the 5845 is my favourite sewing pattern of all time.
The 5845, a simple darted bodice with a high front neck, low cut back and fitted skirt.
The version I have made has a low scoop back and full gathered skirt.
I found this cotton sateen in my stash, washed it, dried it, then stared at it for days. Days. Not even exaggerating. I couldn't decide between making another strapless M6349 (with short full skirt) or a M5845 with short full skirt. In the end, I stuck with my TNT pattern - M5845.
The bodice is the same as my floral version with outside darts except I did a swayback adjustment, a proper one. The skirt is from M6349 so it's slimmer than my "self drafted" full gathered skirts. I prefer this skirt, it's less poofy and less hem to handsew.
I lined the bodice with red sunsilky polyester, installed a waist stay, and handpicked the zip.
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