Friday, 13 April 2012

Finished Project & Pattern Review: Vogue 8511 with Self-Drafted Asymmetrical Collars.

I have realised something. I hate cutting. I really, really hate the cutting process... pinning, measuring the grain line, folding the selvedge together... it is so tedious!! I just want to get straight to sewing!

Today I thought to myself "Just Do It" and I finished the V8511 with collars, asymmetrical collars inspired by a RTW dress I saw at the shops.

This dress is made using some sort of polyester blend that feels very much like the fabric of the inspiration dress. I'm happy to call my fabric polyester/viscose/elastane since I don't know what it really is. The lining is half sunsilky polyester, half acetate. I went shopping for lining and only got enough lining for the bodice, I didn't realise the pattern only had a lined bodice. Luckily I had red sunsilky lining leftover from my other red dress with the peter pan collars so there was no "grr" moments.

For the first time, I shortened the skirt at the "lengthen or shorten here" lines on the pattern. Usually I hack off length at the hem, but this skirt is a tulip style skirt and shortening at the hem will change the shape of the skirt.

I'm not sure if I did it correctly, because when I joined the front and back skirt pieces together, the front piece was about an inch longer. Not sure what happened there! I trimmed off the excess on the serger. Naughty. I should've looked into why that happened... ahh next time.

When I tried the dress on, there was a strange V shaped wrinkle on my butt. Very unflattering. It looked like I was wearing a giant, lumpy thong!! :(

I checked my "Complete Sewing Guide" book I bought the other day, and the book said that my butt was too big. Completely possible, I have been making very bad food choices this week... I blame Easter and being sick. Cough cough.

It was too late to cut a bigger skirt (I cut a size 6 for he whole dress, even the waist!) and it was too late to let out the darts (book said to do that), so instead I extended the darts closest to the centre by 2 inches. It did the trick. I'm happy that the ugly V wrinkle is gone, but not happy that my butt has gotten bigger. Have to get back into doing squats!

I really like this pattern, the princess seamed bodice is so quick and easy, it really surprised me. The tulip skirt with the pleats is adorable, and different to my usual gathered and fitted skirts.

This is how I will look at work. In the photos, I am wearing a thick black belt so I can look like the girl on the pattern envelope, hehe. I wear belts with all my dresses though, I feel naked without a belt. I am also wearing small heels because I don't wear stilettos at work. I think this dress is very office appropriate, I like it a lot.

I was going to put my dress on the dress form to take photos of the lining, but I thought I would do something different... good idea at the time, but I had serious trouble trying to unzip myself.

Can you see the two different linings? Hahaha, they're supposed to be both red. I guess red polyester and red acetate look different... color blocking?

In the second photo of the lining, you can see that V wrinkle I was talking about earlier (I didn't fix the darts on the lining) it's not as bad on the lining, but you can see what I am talking about.

Pattern Review: V8511, drafted own collars.

Size: Size 6
Fabric: 1.5m polyester/viscose/elastane blend (red), 1.5m lining (red).
Notions: Invisible zipper (hot red) 22", Gutermann thread (156).
    • added collars,
    • shortened skirt pattern pieces by 9cm.
Time: About 6 hours, over 2 days.
Cost: $10 (fabric, lining, zip), pattern ($15) and thread from my stash.

TIPS for next time: 
    • Find out why the front skirt piece is longer,
    • More care when cutting fabric.
New techniques learned: 
    • The shape of the collars was drawn free hand, but the I learnt how to draft my own collars by following Gertie's online tutorial (part 1part 2part 3).
I am very, very pleased with how the collars turned out, I like these collars even more than the peter pan collars because they don't look too 'school girl'.

I cannot wait to wear this dress on Monday on my first day back at work! My weekly sewing class also starts again this week. Guess what I am up to? Cutting the fabric. Grrrrrrrr!!!

Hope everyone has an awesome weekend! 


  1. Oh wow, this is lovely and you've done a great job on the self-drafted collars!!! Despite any fitting issues you've had, this dress fits you like a glove now ;o)

    1. Thanks Marie! I sometimes don't want to make fitted/semi fitted/skimming skirts because of fitting, so glad this one could be saved!

  2. This looks perfect! I'm definitely a fan of the tulip skirt shape and the collar is very cute.

    1. Definitely won't be my last tulip skirt now that I have figured out how to fix the fitting issue... or I could cut a bigger size!

  3. This looks great! You wear red so well. I love the self-drafted collar and the tulip skirt is very cute.

  4. This dress is gooorgeous, so jealous :) It fits so super well! And the collar! Love it all :)

    And YES, thank you- I also hate cutting fabric! Booring, I want to get to the good part! lol!

    1. I cut fabric this week at class, luckily they have really long tables so it wasn't too daunting :)

  5. This is gorgeous! Great job! You look so cute in this dress! I'm new to your blog, btw, but I really like it!

    1. Thanks Ginger, and thank you for checking out my blog, I love your blog :)

  6. Wow, this is a hot, hot, hot, dress! Great work!

  7. Lovely dress - you look awesome in it. I love the photo with the lining - it almost looks like a reversible dress!

    Thanks for your comment on my blog - I agree with everything you said, plus you directed me to a couple of blogs I haven't seen before, so thanks for that!

    1. Thanks Tilly!!! I tried making a reversible dress once, but i failed cos of the non-reversible zipper :/

  8. What a great new work ensemble! I would have had no idea you cut the skirt a little small to begin with. Easter candy has been totally bad for me lately...

  9. Hi Neeno, have you tried cutting with a cutting board and a rotary cutter? You will find cutting much easier with this. I just put weights on pattern on fabric and just slice through. Would have given up on sewing if I had to use scissors and pins everytime. I much prefer this collar to peter pan collars. I made peter pan for girls but wont for myself. The collar makes the dress cooler. Lol.
    Thanks for all the very lovely comments you left on my blog. I appreciate them all. Loving your blog also...

    1. I am taking your advice and I am saving for a cutting board and rotary cutter. I will also look online. I find it the most difficult when cutting the lining, and since I try to make mostly lined dresses, the mat and cutter will be a good investment. thank you for your advice :) xo

  10. Wow you look amazing in this dress! It's so well fitted and the colour is perfect on you :)


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