Today was an awesome day, firstly today was the day of Julia Bobbin's Mad Men Challenge reveal!! Secondly, it was the end of daylights savings in Victoria so I got an extra hours sleep. Lastly, I tested out my new overlocker (serger)!
I get bored practicing with calico so I used my already cut vintage Simplicity 3222 pattern and made a practice dress! I cut the pattern traced and cut the pattern in my dressmaking class, it's the dress I'll be working on this term. Today I made the blue one, but without the cummerband. The dress I make in class will have the cummerband.
This is the first dress in a long time that is not lined. I really wanted to line it, but that would defeat the purpose of serging, so I followed the pattern and made facings. I spent the morning cutting out my fabric - stretch poplin (poly-spandex), $10 for 2.5m on the remnants table at GJ's Fabrics.
|Bodice front. Only four darts. Yay!|
Oh, and two more on the back bodice... and four on the skirt.
After lunch, electricity came back on, phew. I love the color of this dress, I am mad fan of hot pink. Some modifications were made for my thick waist, and I think possibly because of that (with the help of my sometimes rushed cutting) some things (darts and side seams) don't line up on my dress. I ended up taking it in heaps at the back anyway so I will trace the origin pattern again, the original measurements will definitely fit, and hopefully everything will line up perfectly.
|Such a cute neck line!|
The bodice fits but a little big in the bust, I should have got the 30" pattern, but I didn't realise at the time. I love the little detail on the neckline and the raglan sleeves. The skirt had some interesting soft pleats, which took me a while to figure out!! Thankfully, these vintage patterns are very detailed and had arrows pointing at this-and-that which was helpful. I took the back bodice in 4cm, then graded to 2.5cm at the waist and skirt.
|Vintage Simplicity 3222 (front)|
Finished the sleeve on the machine, twin needles.
Skirt has soft pleats at the front.
|Vintage Simplicity 3222 (back)|
Even though the side seams weren't aligned and some of the darts didn't match up, I am so glad the waist line matched up at the zip. The zipper is the thing that I am completely OCD about. I can hide the dodgy darts with a belt :)
Sorry, the shiny pink fabric was very hard to capture on iphone.
Now for an inside look of my unlined dress!!!
|Vintage Simplicity 3222 (inside, front)|
|Vintage Simplicity 3222 (inside, back)|
I trimmed off the excess fabric next to the zipper by overlocking it after I had stitched the skirt back.
I was planning on hand sewing the sleeves and hem, but because of the electricity outage, I lost 3 hours so I finished them on the machine with twin needles.
Pattern Review: Vintage Simplicity 3222, purchased from Etsy.
Size: Size 12, Bust 32".
Fabric: 1.4m Stretch Poplin (poly spandex).
Notions: Invisible zipper (american beauty) 20", Gutermann thread (733).
- zipper at the back instead of the side, added SA to back bodice,
Time: 8 hours.
Total cost: $35 ish:
Total cost: $35 ish:
- Pattern $20
- Fabric $10 for 2.5m... so $5 cos I only used half
- Zipper $4
- Thread $4
- Whisperweft - from stash
TIPS for next time:
New techniques learned:
Even though this dress isn't technically perfect, I love it. I have gotten over feeling naked in an unlined dress and I think I will make more so I can play around with the overlocker. I'm a kinestetic learner, and this is the only way I will achieve perfection :)
This is my first time sewing with an original vintage pattern, and I think it went well. Now I know what size I am: 30" bust!! Or less... Here I come Etsy!
Next time, I'll finish the hem by hand. I really love the wiggle skirt, and the soft pleats at the front. I look forward to making this dress again in my floral cotton sateen with the cummerband!