Thursday, 7 June 2012

Finished Project & Pattern Review: Vintage Simplicity 3222 Wiggle Dress with Self-Fabric Cummerbund.

My beautiful vintage style floral dress with wiggle skirt, notched collar, raglan sleeves and cummerbund is complete. The finished garment is so gorgeous, the only thing that would make it even better is if it were lined.


This dress was my sewing project for Term 2 at my weekly dressmaking class. I made it using the floral cotton sateen I got on sale at Spotty for $3/m (rrp $16/m). I used the leftover fabric to make my floral V8511.

From cutting to sewing the hook and bar on the cummerbund took 7 sewing lessons (14 hours).


Vintage Floral Wiggle Dress with Self-Fabric Cummerbund.

I sew very slowly at sewing class, keep it relaxing and social. I like to wander around and chat to the other ladies and see what wonderful garments they are making.


The hardest part of putting this dress together was the facing. The notched collar made it incredibly tricky, I left it to my sewing teacher to pin it up for me. The mistake I made last time with my hot pink version was pinning it all together at once, sewing it, and ended up with some bumps.

If I had bothered reading the instructions, it says to pin the sides of the facings first, sew, the pin the centre facing and it all matches up – no bumps.

The raglan sleeves were surprisingly easy. If anyone is thinking about trying a pattern with raglan sleeves, I strongly encourage it, it’s super easy.


Beautiful notched collar.

The bust size (32”) is larger than my measurement, so it doesn't fit as snug as I would like, nothing a good push up bra can’t fix, right?  

I learnt that bust adjustments (to make smaller) can’t be made on bodice patterns with darts. That’s discrimination. No fair!! If I make this pattern again, I may research how to transform the bodice to a princess seam and take it in that way next time.

I also learnt that I have a sway-back. My teacher made the sway back adjustment for me. I think she shortened the back bodice.


Slim, wiggle skirt with soft pleats at the front.
Skirt vent (back).

I cut the whole pattern as per original size, with some minor adjustments: Skirt shortened, 4cm added to the waist, 7cm added to the cummerbund. The women of the 60s were so small-waisted!

The cummerbund: I love it!!! The cummerbund was cut on a bias, gathered, boned, hem finished with hemming tape, hooks and bars hand sewed on.

This was my first time working with boning. I used polyboning which was easy to use. It was simply pinned on the cummerbund then sewed on both sides.


Polyboning.


Hand sewed the hooks.


Hand sewed the bars.


Gathered and boned. Hehe.


Hem finished with hemming tape.

I hand sewed the sleeves and hem, and of course the hook/bars on the cummerbund. I dreaded sewing the hooks/bars. I don’t have a lot of patience and hand sewing seems so tedious, but it’s actually quite relaxing. It took one hour to sew 3 pairs of hooks/bars.


Pattern Review: Vintage Simplicity 3222, View 2, slim wiggle skirt and self-fabric cummerbund, no bows

Size: 12, Bust 32”  
Fabric: 2m floral cotton sateen
Notions: Invisible zipper (black) 22", Gutermann thread (000), 25cm polyboning, 60cm whisperweft interfacing, hooks/bars
Time: 7 sewing classes (14 hours)
Cost: $40ish – pattern $20, fabric $6 (on sale!), zip $4, polyboning $1, whisperweft interfacing $6, hooks/bars $4

Techniques used: 
  •  Understitching
  •  Tailors tacks
  •  Invisible hem
  •  Bias cut (cummerbund)
Adjustments:
  • Added 4cm to waist
  • Added 7cm to cummerbund
  • Shortened skirt
  • Sway back

This dress fits perfectly everywhere but the chest, it gapes because it's too big. If I stand straight, it's fine though.

I love the length! 

The cummerbund gives the dress a nice silhouette, pulls it in at the waist and gives gorgeous gathered detail. Without the cummerbund, it looks kind of bland so I would have to wear a belt, but the self-fabric cummerbund is so much better!

In conclusion, I love this pattern, I love the fabric, I love the cummerbund and the fit is great (except the bust). I would love to sew this dress again and fully line it. I'd like to try and modify the bodice to a princess seamed bodice and try to take it in a size :) Hope you guys like the dress. 

I've just realised that I can also wear the cummerbund with my floral V8511 because the fabric matches!

PS. Thank you for all your lovely comments on my M6201 dress and suggestions on the length.
I have decided to go with the short length because I'd like to wear the dress with black tights and I think the short length will look better. I'll post a pic once I finish the hem and wear it out.

Enjoy you Friday and long weekend (to the peeps in Australia). Happy Birthday to the Queen :D










15 comments:

  1. This is gorgeous! I love the shape of it-- too chic! You can do an SBA with a bodice with darts-- this blog post has some good links and a helpful video: http://rhinestonesandtelephones.blogspot.com/2012/02/sew-colette-pastille-small-and-full.html

    But really, the dress looks amazing!

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Just been reading tutorial on SBA, omg looks complex :( Have you done a SBA before Ginger?

      Delete
  2. So lovely :) Congrats! And yes, you can make a SBA on a darted bodice. I just finished my first garment that I did that to. I took loads out of the boobies, haha! Look out for it on my blog in a few days (if I'm lucky and actually get nice enough weather for a decent photo!
    Aren't vintage pattern beautiful? Love the cummerbund! :D

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hey ladies! @Gingermakes @Johanna

      My teacher said I couldn't make any adjustments, but this was after I had already sewed up the dress fabric... so maybe that's why she said no...? I made a muslin which seem to fit good, but in the end it was gape-y. Maybe if I made adjustsments before sewing it up?

      Ginger, I'll definitely refer to that blogpost for next time cos I really want to do a SBA (is that a real acronym?) for this dress, I love the notched collars :D

      Johanna, I can't wait to see what you are sewing!!

      Delete
  3. Wow I love it, your fabric reminds me of my nonna, she had curtain fabric like your fabric in her kitchen. :)
    Do you have plans of making this again?

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. Hahaha, I can't tell if you are being genuine or sarcastic since you are commenting anonymously.

      Delete
  4. Not at all, I've just started sewing, so I don't have a blog just yet. Its very sound of music, I didn't mean to offend you. -Ana

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. My apologies Ana, I wasnt sure how to reply back :) I've seen some real nasty anonymous commenters on other blogs before and didn't want to reply back if it was a rude person being sarcastic :)

      I love this fabric, I've made two dresses with it so far. I hope to make this vintage dress again once I can do a SBA. Welcome to the sewing community :) u must give me ur blog URL one u start blogging :)
      Xx

      Delete
  5. The fabric is perfect for this dress. Gorgeous.

    ReplyDelete
  6. I love this. The raglan sleeve and notched collar are such cool features. Very nice!

    ReplyDelete
  7. So pretty! I love the fabric you chose and am very interested in those raglan sleeves.

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The raglan sleeves are so easy, compared to cap sleeves. They're the only 2 sleeve types I've done so far.. all my dresses are usually sleeveless as Candice pointed out :)

      Delete
  8. I am so use to seeing your dresses without sleeves but this one with sleeves looks stunning. Such a great fabric choice which suits the vintage pattern. I am slightly jealous about the great price you got the fabric for! :)

    ReplyDelete
    Replies
    1. The first dress I made, I spent $45 on cotton sateen. After that first purchase I got smarter and waited for sales :)I was very lucky with this fabric find, I got 4m for $12 and made 2 dresses out of it. I love the floral, I wore my floral V8511 at work yesterday and got heaps of compliments on the fabric :)

      Delete
  9. Gorgeous as usual! I really wished that I had the time to sew again :)
    Keep it up! Love reading this!

    ReplyDelete

©Copyright 2011 - 2014. Powered by Blogger.

© 2011 Sew Me Love, AllRightsReserved.

Designed by ScreenWritersArena