Monday, 19 November 2012

Finished Project & Pattern Review: Burda 7254. Un-picking black knits is a bitch!

I started this dress in September and two months later here it is, all finished!

This was my project for my weekly sewing class, my first Burda project and first time with jersey.

Jersey was a big challenge. Encouraging words from classmates and bloggers got me through... "jersey is great to sew with"... "jersey doesn't fray"... "jersey is forgiving" ...





And you are all right, it definitely is forgiving, and doesn't fray and is great to sew with once you get used to it. I forgot to stretch the fabric a few times, whoops.

The hardest part was tracing the Burda 7254 pattern on to "paper". I never cut into the original pattern, always trace it on to sew-on interfacing and use that as a pattern piece. The Burda pattern confuses me, the "lines" for each size are busy looking, not like BM&V.

Marking the hundreds of pleats on the bodice was tedious but I made it through, pleated the side bodice pieces and sewed it to the interfaced centre piece, then the fun began ;)

The rest of the dress was easy peazie. Four darts on the back, some pleats on the sleeves, facings.

This dress is not lined, instead it has facings which are stabilized using McCall's textureweft (iron on) and raw edges serged. The centre piece and centre back is interfaced.

The dress is closed with a 22" black invisible zipper.

I hemmed the dress by hand, using a 'flat catch stitch' - I think that's what the stitch is called, my tutor showed me this new stitch and I missed the name of it so I Googled and found this handy document on hand sewing. Have a look at my pic below and let me know if I'm right.

I was suppose to finish the sleeve by hand as well, but I got lazy, went and bought myself a twin stretch needle and finished it by machine. I think the sewing-gods were watching and decided to punish me for being lazy, cos I stuffed up one sleeve and spent a good half hour unpicking, grr, hence the title of this post.

TOP: Inside view of bodice & facings
MIDDLE: Zipper & darts, Outside bodice
BOTTOM: Pleats, 'Flat catch stitch' on hem

Pattern Review: Burda 7254

Size: Size 10
Fabric: 1.75m jersey from Rathdowne Fabrics
Notions: Invisible zipper 22" (black), Gutermann thread (000), Textureweft interfacing,
Time: 2 months worth of sewing class aka 16 hours
Cost: Fabric $30; Zipper $5; Textureweft $10, Pattern $10, 
Techniques used: 
    • Flat catch stitch
    • Darts
    • Pleats
    • Sewing with stretch fabric
Pattern Modification/Adjustments: 
No modifications or adjustments! Fits perfect everywhere. 
I am extremely pleased because I don't have those terrible drag lines in my butt area that I usually get with a fitted skirt (handmade and RTW). I'm putting this down to either me being a 10 in the butt and should start cutting a size 10 or it's the jersey's beautiful drape, bless you jersey. 
If I make this again, I'd like to make a small adjustment to the back, gapes just a tiny bit near the top of zipper.



Not a very photo heavy post, but you can see that this dress is awesome! I feel like such a lady in this dress. I don't own any dresses that are below the knee.
Hello skirt vent! 

This dress is definitely "figure enhancing" and "surprising stylish" - quote PatternReview.com.

Another reason why I'm watching my photo upload on Blogger is because I found out the other week that Blogger has an upload limit and once you reach that limit you won't be able to upload more. Wah. Check out Miss Directions post for tips on uploading pics on to Blogger (here).


So now I make sure that I don't upload duplicates and resize my images using Pic Monkey so I don't exceed my storage limit.


My next project at class with be Burda pants. I can't wait. I'm also working on a dress for my work Xmas party (30th Nov) which I am on track to finish. Have already finished the bodice, took only a few hours. If you follow my Instagram (Neeno_24), you can see some progress pics :) 

Speaking of Xmas, is anyone sewing a 'Christmas' dress? I'm tempted to sew a dress in Christmas fabric, with reindeers or elves on it... 


29 comments:

  1. Beautiful, it's so elegant! Looks like a lot of work with all those pleats, but very much worth it.

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    1. Thanks Elise, when I bought the pattern, I thought that they were gathers not pleats. I thought "easy, gathering is easy". I was in for a huge surprise when I read the instructions and saw that they were pleats!!! :D

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  2. Ooo, great dress!! Very feminine and elegant. And, I think a reindeer dress would be awesome!

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    1. Woo hoo heading to the fabric store this weekend, yayayay!

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  3. Oh, this looks great! It fits you so beautifully and is really unique! Great job, lady! I use Flickr Pro (like $24/year for unlimited storage) so I don't have to upload the actual photo file on my blog. No stress about space restrictions!

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    1. Thanks Ginger! Ok so I upload pics on to Flickr Pro, then "add" pics using the Flickr URL? Is that right?
      Can I make the photos private? It would be great cos then I can upload all my pics on there to store rather than use up space in my laptop...

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  4. You didn't look for easy way%)) Pretty difficult project for first time using new type of fabric:) But you made very nice dress!!

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    1. Yes!! The combination of new pattern, new pattern company, new fabric = stress!!!!!

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  5. Your jersey dress is lovely, very lady like certainly. Go for the Christmas dress, over the years I have made many from the sublime (lovely bright red linen shirt-waist) to the ridiculous (shorts suit in a Christmas bauble print). It adds a bit of fun to the day, as well as a few cringe worthy photos!

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    1. Bauble... now that sounds fun!! I love dressing up so I might get some props too! Ho ho ho!

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  6. Looks beautiful. Unpicking knits sucks!!

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    1. I almost gave up on the unpicking and contemplated chopping some of the sleeve off hahahaha

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  7. This looks fab! I love the fit on you :D Jersey is tres awesome!

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  8. Isn't jersey just the best?? I love how easy it is to work with (once you get the hang of it of course), and how nicely it clings to curves (yay for no drag lines!) and drapes. Great first knit dress! Are you totally hooked now?

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    1. Hey Cindy! Jersey is fab! It took few weeks for me to stop stressing about the fabric stretching and warping. I panicked when I went to iron the interfacing on and the jersey was all stretched out. Gahhh!
      I want to make another jersey-something, but I think I'll get a heavier knit, less slinky. I can't handle the stress lol. I love the drape!!!!!

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  9. Wow! So elegant and sexy! Certainly sewing knit fabric is very nice and you got an absolute winner in your wardrobe! I love it!

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    1. Thanks Rosy, I finished it just in time for Spring/Summer. The slinky jersey feels nice and cool against my skin :)

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  10. Feel like a lady, and certainly look like one too! What a stunner of a pattern. I WANT this pattern. Your fabric choice is a real winner too - LOVE it!

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    1. You should get this pattern and make it too!!!! I've only seen one other version of this dress on the internet and I'm keen to see more :)

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  11. Oooh I love this dress.. I follow your post and I recently thought I would give my own a crack.. Although im not as good a sewer as you hahah

    http://becstiches.blogspot.com.au/

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    1. Hi Bec! Looking forward to seeing your creations on your blog. The teddy is very cute!

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  12. Oh, how I love jersey! There is something so wonderful about making something where you don't have to worry about certain fit issues. This dress looks fantastic! I love the below the knee length. I'm going to have to bookmark this pattern for after baby. It really is stylish and flattering. And I really love those Burda envelope patterns. Also, I pay for extra photo storage on Google every month. It costs a whopping 2.95. I figure it's worth it to not have to watch closely how much space I'm using.

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    1. $2.95/month! Damn! That is a lot when I only pay $10 or so for the domain name... I'll have to think about that one... but it might be worth it if it's unlimited then I can back up my personal photos on there too.

      I LOVE the drawings on the vintage patterns! I got on Etsy to look at them all the time :)

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  13. Nicely done! Are you going to make it again? Sounds like it was an exercise in patience, but what a great result :)

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  14. Hi
    Are you on sewing pattern review? I've noticed there are no reviews for this pattern. It looks really amazing. Nice to see it on a real person.
    Mary in Thailand

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  15. Ooooh, I love this pattern and your's is the first review of it I have seen. Great job!

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