Monday, 28 October 2013

WIP: Bust Padding, Butted Seams and Boning the Bodice, McCall's 6349.

My last post on this WIP was very short. I had no words to describe what was happening, I was literally lost for words. 

I chose View C of the M6349  because I like the heart shaped neckline but the gathering down the centre seam did not make sense. 

I thought that the gathering would create the 'cups' on the bodice therefore only on the top half of the bodice, but the instructions said otherwise. According to the instructions, the gathering is all the way down the bodice, which didn't look great on me. There was no body, no volume, the bodice looked flat.  

I almost gave up on the pattern but then I realised that I could use the 'underlining'/'lining' pieces for shell as well! The underlining/lining is princess seamed. 



From what I could tell while pinching the back seams together with my fingers, it fits. Need more boobs to fill it out so I've added bust padding. I googled "what to use for bust padding" and came across Tasia's tutorial and that's where I learned about butted seams! 

"Butted Seam - Abutted Seam. A flat seam joining two plies, edge-to-edge, without overlay or seam allowance" - Google

Following Tasia's tuturial, I went shopping in the quilting section for cotton batting, cut out the batting with no SA, and started butting seams.

I found it easier to feed the two pieces of cotton batting into the machine first (without the cotton tape) then once the pieces are joined, do another stitch with the cotton tape.

Also had a go at making my own bra cups. Fun, fun.

The layers of cotton batting remind me of potato chips. Mmm.
TOP: Cutting out bodice pieces with NO SA - Butted Seam - Bra Cup
BOTTOM: Bra Cup attached to Bust Padding

Over the weekend, I cut out my fabric - floral print cotton, interfaced the bodice pieces with whisperweft, and got sewing. I attached the padding to the shell and boned the lining (bodice is self-lined).

TOP: Butted Seam - Whisperweft interfacing
BOTTOM: Padding attached to shell - Boning on lining
Sewing a strapless bodice is so much quicker because there are no armscyes. Understitching is easy - just one stitch across with neckline. 

The bodice is beautiful, so soft and plushy, just wanna bury my face in it! 


Tonight I'm working on the skirt, it's floor length and gathered. Can't wait to finish this dress!!

Watch this space.

Have to say a big thank you to Tasia for these awesome tutorials, and for building such a great website that is easily found when Googling! You are amazing. 

Sewaholic Tutorials! 


14 comments:

  1. Can't wait to see the finished article! I might run out for some padding too.

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    1. The batting I got was 135GSM, 254cm/100" wide, 50% bamboo and 50% cotton. I purchased 20cm of it and had enough to make the padding for this bodice. It was about $23/m.

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  2. Your dress looks great so far! I made my first strapless dress with Vogue 8766 over the summer. I modified it to make a sweetheart neckline and do an FBA. It took multiple fittings, but it finally worked out and I wore it a LOT. I'll definitely keep Tasia's tips in mind for any padding issues.

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    1. Vogue 8766 is a beautiful dress! This is my third strapless pattern and so far it's looking like it's going to be a fav!! I have been told that I have a long upper-bust (or something) so hopefully this bodice gives me the coverage I need up top. I not, I'll have to learn how to lengthen the bust :)

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  3. This really looks awesome! I can't wait to see it! I love how it looks! I'm sure you would never do something so silly, but I machine washed a dress after I put in bust padding made using that tutorial and OMG, it gets all lumpy and misshapen! Hand wash only!

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    1. Thanks for the tip!!!! I'll make sure I handwash it with care... sometimes I do things without thinking so there could have been a chance for me to do something like that!! When I was reading the comments in Tasia's post, someone did ask if machine washing it would make the padding turn into a lumpy mess... but now I know for sure thanks to you so I will definitely be handwashing!!! :)

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  4. Hi Neeno, I am so glad to see your post on adding bust paddings on a strapless bodice. Would you recommend this technique to be used in constructing a wedding gown? Also will the batting make the dress to warm to wear in the Summer? Very nice job. Can't wait to see the completed dress! Ohh. Post some photos on joining the skirt to the bodice please!

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    1. Hi Celeste!! Are you planning on making a wedding dress?? Cool!!

      This is my first time using cotton batting as a padding so I'm no expert, but I see no reason why this batting can't be used on a wedding gown as long as you use good quality batting and dryclean/handwash the gown.

      I guess the batting would add some warmth to the bodice, but if it means I can go bra-less then I'm fine with it. I hate wearing bras in summer :) I'll let you know how warm it feels when I wear it out.

      I've still undecided on whether or not to line the skirt, but I will definitely take some photos and post them for you :)

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    2. I am still hesitating on the wedding dress.

      I picked up so many techniques from your blog. (Big thanks!) I also discovered more on Sewaholic aka Tasia through your site. I just ordered two of her patterns.

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    3. I think you should give it a go :) If I can perfect the fit on this dress, I'd definitely a formal version of it :)
      I did final fitting last night and I need a SBA!! Saved the dress by taking it in HEAPS at the back seam around the top but I know that is not the right way to adjust it, so next version I'm doing an SBA.

      Tania's blog is full of great tips and tutorials, I love it :)

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  5. Oh it's going to look great! I love how the batting lends such a soft look to the bodice lines. That and the anti-wrinkle properties of such an underlining will be fabulous! Great save :)

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    1. Thanks Mel :)
      Anti wrinkle, yay!! I love how stable and think the bodice looks. Fingers crossed on the fit...

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  6. Can't wait to see this finished, it's going to be GORGEOUS!

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    1. Thank you!! I'm going to work on the skirt tonight (didn't get around to it on Monday cos of X Factor hehe)

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