Thursday, 21 November 2013

Finished Project & Pattern Review: McCall's 6349, View C with Ruched Bust.

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Isn't this the most amazing fabric? 
Look closer.... haha fish! 

This post would have been up a lot sooner, but I got distracted... started working on a new dress for Thanksgiving. I think I'm up to my third "dress for Thanksgiving"... keep changing my mind!! Can't decide on what to wear this Saturday when I meet my BF's dad and wife for the first time. Yikes. Super excited about turkey though.

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As with all patterns, the second time round is always more enjoyable, after all the fitting issues are identified and fixed.

In my case, it was the back. I must have a small back cos on my floral maxi version, I had a 4cm SA at the top, grading out to 1.5cm SA at the waist.

Trying to be proactive, I made adjustment to the pattern piece. Only one problem - I forgot about the SA and took a 4cm chunk out of the back bodice piece. Didn't realise this till I stitch the shell and underlining together. I managed to save it by unpicking the back seams (not side seams because they had boning) and restitching with a 0.75cm SA. Crisis averted. Considering how average I am at maths.. it was a good save!

My other problem area is the bust. Haven't opened the SBA can of worms yet so lets move on.

No complaints with this pattern, all the pieces came together swimmingly (see what I did there??). I didn't have to refer to the instructions as the construction was pretty straight forward. Oops, I lied. I did refer to instructions, just for piece 13 when I was working on the muslin. Bloody piece 13. Confusing as.

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But I figured it out! The problem with my muslin was the interfacing, it made the fabric too stiff so the ruching didn't sit against the underlining. On this version, I  didn't interface piece 13.

Instead of spreading the gathering down the entire centre front seam, I kept the gathering at the top around the bust area to give the bust some much needed oomph.

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Pattern: McCall's 6349, View C, with no shoulder straps

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Project Details...

Pattern: McCall's 6349, View C, with no shoulder straps

Size: 6
Pattern Pieces used: 7 (bodice front lining), 8 (bodice side front lining ), 13 (bodice front) 16 (bodice back), 17 (bodice side back), 19 (skirt back), 21 (skirt front)
Fabric: 1.5m cotton sateen (Darn Cheap) with an awesome floral/fish print (shell), 1m Japanese Lawn cotton, white (lining)
Notions: Gutermann thread (800), dress zipper 14" (black),  0.5m polyboning, 1m whisperweft interfacing, 80cm grosgrain ribbon, bikini hook,Cost: Fabric $20,  Lining $5, Whisperweft Interfacing $10, Polyboning $5, Zipper $2, Grosgrain Ribbon $2, Bikini hook $1

Pattern Modification/Adjustments:
  • No shoulder straps
  • Took 4cm out back bodice piece (#17) - I should have only taken 2.5cms out, forgot about the seam allowance. Saved bodice by stitching #16 and #17 with 0.75cm SA
  • On bodice front ( #13), I only gathered the top of the bodice to keep gathering over the bust, not down the entire centre seam as per pattern
  • I omitted the bust padding from this version
Techniques Used:
  • Boning (great tutorial by Sewaholic here)
  • Waist Stay (great tutorial by Sewaholic here)
  • Hand picked zip
  • Gathering (skirt)
  • French seam (skirt side seams)

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I love Japanese Cotton Lawn, can I marry you??? Fantastic to work with!
Excuse the fugly overlocking, my overlocker was doing naughty things.
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I had leftover fabric so I cut out a second bodice, was planning to use it as lining (self-lined) but the Japanese Lawn underlining turned out so beautifully that I used that for the lining too. In the coming months, there will be another fishy 6349 on this blog and in my wardrobe.

This is such a great pattern. Highly recommend it to everyone, old or young, novice or advanced. This pattern is super quick and easy to construct (it's the cutting and interfacing that takes time).
If you want a challenge, you can add bust cups and padding like I did last time or make this in a nice rayon, viscose or silk!

Can't wait to smash out another one!!


11 comments:

  1. It's wonderful! I did not I was able to see fish in the fabric until you named it, hehe. No doubt you will look spectacular in this upcoming Thanksgiving dinner. Love, love it!! I always really enjoy your posts so detailed and all your cute sewing projects. Happy week, darling

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    1. Hi Rosy! Thank you for your lovely comment and I'm glad you like my posts!! I love the fish on the fabric, I was hesitant about fabric with fish on it :/ but you can't really see it unless you pay close attention :)

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  2. Girl, this is fabulous! I'm so glad you're back into dressmaking as I always find your projects so inspiring!

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    1. Sonia!! You're MY inspiration baby! Feels good to finally have a great balance between work, social, gym and sewing!!

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  3. stunning as well... you ought to do a round up post with a vote on the three choices! with the caveat that you can ignore us, or make a fourth dress, NATURALLY....

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    1. Oooooh I never thought about doing a round up! I think I will!! Thanks for the idea Oona!! Knowing me and how I like to stick to a TNT, there will be a fourth... and a fifth... ;)

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  4. Oooh gorgeous. You're making me excited to pick mine back up. I put it down after putting in all the boning and need to crack on! Sure you'll do great meeting the parents.

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    1. Please finish yours and blog is ASAP!! I'd love to see another version of it. Meeting the parents was great, and turkey was AMAZING :P

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  5. Your sewing is just first rate. I always show your blog to my daughter to prove that fashionable young women do sew. So there you are...you are a role model!

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    1. Hey Gail, that's awesome!! I hope I can inspired your daughter to try sewing, it is so much fun! Thank you for the lovely comment :))))

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  6. Wow chicken this dress is gorgeous. You have been pumping out the most beautiful dresses and they all look so well made!! Hope your date went well!! Can't wait to see all your other new dresses and catch up on the others on your blog! AMAZING!!

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