Tuesday, 12 November 2013

WIP: McCall's 6349, View C Bodice with Ruched Bust.

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I think I have a new favourite pattern! Or at least favourite pattern in the "strapless bodice" category.

This pattern tested my patience as there was so much cutting and prepping! There was the shell fabric, the underlining, the lining, the INTERFACING!

Then hours ironing on the interfacing to all the pieces. The end result is worth it though, being able to handle each bodice piece without fear of it stretching makes the sewing process much more enjoyable.

If you are planning to use this pattern, and I highly recommend you do, it helps to be super organised because it can get confusing when you are cutting out heaps of the SAME pieces.

I'm hoping the below will help others, I'll definitely be referring to it in the future if I make this dress again.


M6349, View C bodice (no straps). 
Which pieces to cut:

#13 - Bodice Front
CUT 2 (shell fabric)
Used for front bodice, this is the piece that has the bust gathering.
Do not interface (on my muslin I interfaced it and the gathers did not sit against the underlining).
#7 and #8 - Bodice Front Lining and Bodice Side Front Lining
Used for underlining and lining, all pieces to be interfaced
CUT 4 (interfacing)
CUT 4 (lining fabric) 
- One set is the underlining for piece #13, for the gathers to be stitched to
- One set is the lining, that will join with lining pieces #16 and #17
#16 and #17 - Bodice Back and Bodice Side Back
CUT 2 (shell fabric) joins with #13
CUT 2 (lining) joins with #7 and #8
CUT 4 (interfacing) all pieces to be interfaced
Insert boning on the lining side seams

When all the cutting and interfacing is out of the way, the real fun begins! There's sewing, unpicking (grr), gathering, clipping seams, boning, understitching... you name it! 

Also, I figured out pattern piece #13!! I think the issue last time was due to the interfacing, it made the fabric too stiff so the shell wouldn't lay against the underlining, kept poofing up like a puffer fish.

This time I didn't interface piece #13 and it worked out! I made a slight adjustment to the gathers though, instead of the gathering being all the way down the front centre seam, I kepts it all around the bust...

M6349
Bodice underlining (cotton lawn)
Pattern pieces #7 and #8
M6349
View C bodice with bust gathering. 
Pattern pieces: #13 (bodice front shell), 
#7 & #8 (bodice front underlining), 
#7, #8, #16, #17 (lining).
M6349
About to understitch the bodice after joining shell and lining together.
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Isn't it beautiful? To be continued...


8 comments:

  1. You wear a strapless well. Love the bodice ruching.

    ReplyDelete
  2. Your work is always perfect and tasteful.

    ReplyDelete
  3. Beautifully done, It's amazing how lining, interfacing and boning can transform the look of bodice (so fancy :) ) I love the bodice, and the gathers It's so feminine!
    I think I will have to snatch up this pattern!

    ReplyDelete

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