Friday, 24 January 2014

FITTING: By Hand London 'Anna' muslin/toile with sway back adjustment, neck darts & repositioned side seam (part 4).

By now I am sure you are sick to death of my posts and tweets on this topic. I am a woman possessed!! Just make the fucking thing already, right?

Well, now I can!!! I finally got the fit right on my muslin.

After making what felt like two hundred adjustments, the Anna dress is ready to be made up in my beautiful floral cotton voile.

After I did the erect back/short back and shoulder seam adjustments the waistline was still dipping and there was some gaping at the front neck.

I ended up doing a 2.5cm sway back adjustment and took 4cm wedges out of the neck.







As you can see, the neck fit better, the waist was level, but the side seams were still swinging forward. 

I was going to ignore the swinging side seam, but I realised that it would probably affect the way the front of skirt sits on my body, forcing the skirt side seam to swing forward, creating some weird bump... so off to Google I went and I found this:

image
SOURCE

I think instructions "add/subtract twice (abc)" mean you add/subtract on both left and right (ie twice) because they were repositioning the side seams on a sloper whereas I repositioned the side seams on my pattern piece so I didn't add/subtract (abc) amount twice.

I also repositioned the skirt side seams so the bodice and skirt side seams will match up.

The erect back adjustment of 3cm lowered my back neckline, so I added 2cm back into the CB and neckline. Maybe the erect back adjustment wasn't needed?

 So now, I present to you the muslin that has consumed the last fortnight of my life...

Side seam: before and after. I've have since added 2cm to the front bodice length.
Bodice caving in at the top

No more gaping.


There are also some wrinkles on the back and under the arms, but I can't be fucked making another muslin take on another issue right now so I'll turn a blind eye. The wrinkles don't bother me that much.

I have already cut out my floral cotton voile and plan on sewing it this Saturday to wear to a 30th birthday party and a housewarming (both on Sunday). If the wrinkles on this floral version bother me, then I will make more adjustments so that the rayon version I plan to make for my friend's wedding will be perfect. 

Even though it was a frustrating and long winded process, I have to say I enjoyed the challenge. I have learnt a lot of things about my body. Hopefully the next pattern I make (probably Georgia, for the sewalong) won't be as difficult, as I now now what my body issues are and how to fix them.

Speaking of the Georgia Sewalong, I believe that is happening this weekend! Yayyyyy! Who's in???

So now that my fitting dramas with Anna are over, what will I tweet about now? Hahahhaha. 
Thank you every one for your advice, for emailing and linking me to tutorials, for diagnosing my 'issues', for encouraging me and for putting up with the hundreds of #annadress #fittingwoes tweets (especially those followers that DGAF about sewing... who would never read this blog to see this, anyway).

I leave you with a pretty picture of my floral cotton voile, a 22" American Beauty invisible zipper and thread #733.

Happy Australia Day long weekend :)




23 comments:

  1. Wooo! Well done! It looks pretty great now. Your final dress is going to be amazing :) on that last pic at the back, it looks like the wrinkles are pointing to the side seam. Maybe it could be as simple as letting it out a little there for your rib cage?? It would be easy to try out. But really, it doesn't matter, it was just a thought. You can really be proud of this! Go you!

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    1. Hey Jo! Yep I thought about doing a small seam allowance (had this thought after already cutting out fabric, grr) but I want to french seam the dress, especially the skirt, and if I french it I might not have much SA to play around with. Tried it on again today and it's breathable, so I'll leave it for now :)

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  2. I'll have to read up on your posts as I too have a short back (ended up cutting 4 cms of the back in my last creation, even after doing the adjustments for "petite" instructed in the pattern).

    Looks like your going to end up with two beautiful dresses!

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    Replies
    1. I hope so!!!
      Hey could you link me to the short back adjustment?

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    2. Sorry for my late reply to this, just getting stuck into my Anna.
      I have no link to the adjustments I've made, just "pinch & pin", ending up with a 4 cm wedge in the back. Also the pattern had indicated "shorten here for petite", which I'd done (probably 1").
      I've made my first Anna muslin tonight, and while it sits perfectly at the front, it is very baggy in the back, so I'm in for some work to get it to fit as well as yours.

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  3. So glad you finally managed to sort this. The Anna dress always looks so lovel i am ordering the pattern myself this week

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    1. Yay!! Hopefully you won't have as many issues as me!!!

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  4. yaay! good work. so glad you have persevered - look at the difference in fit between your first and last muslins! you always get wrinkles under the arm of a kimono sleeve tho - i'm not sure there is much you can do. look forward to seeing the final dress as your fabric is so pretty (remember to adjust the side skirt panels by the amount you adjusted at the waist so the seams match up!)

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    1. I'm considering going up a size at the bust and the waist next time, then taking in the neck with darts - but I'll see how this floral one goes.
      Yep, I also adjusted the skirt pieces so sides should match. A little worried bout the darts matching though, since I lengthened/shortened the bodice.

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  5. Replies
    1. Thanks Bec! I've never worked this hard on anything in my life lol

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  6. I am really enjoying reading these posts, I have so much to learn and these Anna posts and comments are fantastic. I can't wait to be this clever! x

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    Replies
    1. Thank you :):)
      A lot of trial and error, but that's how I learn best!!

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  7. Wow, it's looking good! I'm impressed and jealous that you suck with it and figured out the fitting issues -- I'm far too lazy for that. :) Can't wait to see the finished dress!

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  8. I am so glad you are posting this series! I have a lot of fitting issues as well and this posting of yours is really helpful. Although my fitting issues are different, your posts are helping me "see" problem areas easier and that is most helpful! I am very impressed that you are persevering with this project. I am sure it will be well worth your while in the long run to get a pattern that will insure a good fit every time! Thank you so much! Kathy from Arizona, USA

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    1. Thanks Kathy, definitely worth it. I can't wait till it's warm again in Au so I can make another Anna. I hate winter!!

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  9. Hope you can use that purple floral toile sheets/fabric version! I love how that colour looks!

    I probably should do the same to the back bodice next time, I always forget about my back and focus on the front too much... and when I sew, I just take inches from the zipper/seam instead... thanks for the reminder!

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    1. I also need to start paying attention to my upper CB, I'm noticing a lot of gaping, even with my RTW gear!

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  10. Well done working it out! Impressive. :)

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  11. Where did you put the wedges from the neckline? I've only seen moving them to another dart or putting a dart there - but you clearly didn't add a dart, and I don't see another dart that you could have easily moved them to. Would love to know what you did instead!

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    Replies
    1. Hi hun!
      You can see what I did here: http://www.sewmelove.com/2014/02/fitting-reducing-neckline-gaping.html

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