However, unlike my last few exes (who would set themselves on fire cos they are that dysfunctional and self destructive) Flora was worth saving, worth the effort, worth sticking around for.
I started Flora back in July, planned to finish to wear to Cicilia and Herbert's Wedding, but I bailed on Flora due to some issues. Ended up making something else the night before, post here.
Sloping waist seam. Bane of my existence!
How could such tragedy happen to a dress this beautiful. Sigh.
Was I drunk during the whole sewing process?? I mean, I had some "low calorie, low alcohol" (why even make such a drink... only bought it cos the bottle-shop threw it in for $5 when I cleaned up on wine and vodka) white wine on the night I was cutting the fabric, but I was not even tipsy.
My guesses are:
- Stuffed up the waist line when I graded pattern from size 2/6 bust to size 4/8 waist
- Fabric stretched during construction
Lesson here is always stay-stitch; and avoid low calorie, low alcohol wine - tastes like Moscato, yuk.
I did make a toile of the bodice using calico (muslin) to check the fit of the bust, but even if I attached the skirt I might not have had the sloping waist seam cos calico doesn't stretch like cotton sateen.
I would have picked up on the "dipping" waist seam though, bloody Anna all over again. I'm 100% convinced now that it's a standard adjustment for me, moving forward.
Despite construction spanning over two months, and my issues; the Flora definitely is an easy pattern to put together, suitable for a beginner.
I wasn't entirely sold on the faux-wrap bodice and dipping hem (both design features I avoid on RTW because of bust gaping and "mullet" hem) but after seeing so many stunning dipped hem versions on my Feedly, I pre ordered myself a copy. The pattern also has a tank bodice with high square neckline and regular hem circle skirt. Might give that version a go next time!
This dress is far from perfect. The insides are ugly; edges frayed from hours of unpicking, very dodgy seam allowances; so thank goodness it's fully lined. Out of sight, out of mind.
There was a lot of reactive-quick-fixes; I don't want to go into too much detail, I don't want you being accessories to crimes of bad sewing.
Basically, every time I tried the dress on, there was something fcuked; dress comes off, unpicker come out, furious pinning, swear words, then praying.
|Spent a gorgeous Sunday inside with my unpicker.|
My issues with the dress:
- sloping waist seam front
- the above resulted in a very uneven front hem
- dipped waist line (like Anna)
|The 'right side' of fabric peeking out is the extra SA I took from the bodice front.|
After the waist seam was straightened up, the front hem fixed itself. However, the lining stretched so bad; glad I left it hanging for over a month to get all stretched out, bemsilk you are mean.
EDIT: OMG, I just realised why the bemsilk stretched so much. I didn't cut it on the 'straight' because the bemsilk was not wide enough for the skirt pieces. FACEPALM. Okay, that gamble did not pay off. Lesson learnt. Please don't stretch anymore. I'm a fcuking idiot. URGH.
To "fix" the hem, I hung the dress on my mannequin and simply hacked off what was hanging past the hem of the shell. Was not a pretty sight, so much potential for disaster... I then overlocked/serged the lining hem, then handstitched it to the shell.
EDIT: I also fixed the "sloping waist" at the back using the same technique... similar to a sway-back adjustment, I suppose!
The dress looks beautiful on the outside; but behind closed doors there was a lot of crying, swearing, wanting to tear her apart, wanting to give up. Like most dysfunctional relationships I guess, haha ;)
|Front view, back view.|
Removed CB seam on bodice back and skirt back to keep beautiful floral pattern uninterrupted.
I'm very glad I persisted, worked out all the issues cos now I have something handmade to wear to Frocktails (Melbourne) this Saturday night.
Looking forward to having a drink and a feed with all you fabulous Sewcialites this weekend.
Thank you for organizing, Oanh!
To all the ladies attending the Frocktails in Sydney, I am very jelly that I can't be there!